Trip Report: April 23 to May 8, 2003
by Ted & Sylvia Blishak
TO PITTSBURGH AND GREENVILLE, SC
Greenville to Washington to Chicago to Winnemucca.
Greenville, SC: Sunday May 4, 2003
Greenville is an attractive, modern city with extravagant sub-divisions of large, landscaped homes, tree-lined streets, outdoor cafes, and a monument to General Robert E Lee, with the sentiment, carved in stone, that the Confederate cause was right and time will eventually prove it. After a wonderful reunion with son Mark, daughter-in-law Lonnie, and our two grandchildren who we hadn't seen for a year and a half since they lived near Waco, Texas it was time to head for the homebound leg of the journey.
The Crescent was due to depart at 11 PM, and since 5-year-old Kaelyn didn't have school on Monday morning, she was permitted to come along as her father drove us to the station. (Eight-year-old Garrett wanted to come, too, but his 7:00 AM school bus would have made it impractical.) It was a warm night, and Kaelyn was prepared with Li'l Tot, a tiny portable chair which she pulled out of the Windstar minivan, unfolded, and set up on the lawn next to the platform. She settled in with her stuffed Panda under one arm, a grin on her face, and gazed down the track.
Greenville has a small manned station, but we sat outside. While Amtrak had reported the train on time when we phoned, it was actually about half an hour late, so we had a chance to extend our visit and exchange more hugs. Once on board, the relative coolness of the Deluxe Room B in the 2011 car was restful after the humid South Carolina climate, and we were soon asleep.
Washington, DC: Monday May 5, 2003
At breakfast, we were seated in the dining car with a woman who owns a dress shop in Charlottesville, VA and was traveling to New York by Amtrak to view the fashions for next season. Her opinion of flying to New York: "Too much of a hassle." This was the first trip in which she booked a sleeping car room, and she thought it was just great, and would do it on every trip to New York.
Travel Tip: Get a day room when your layover between trains is lengthy.
We detrained in Washington, DC, to cool, rainy weather. There was a Red Cap on the platform, who took us and our bags to the taxi stand for our short trip to the Washington Plaza Hotel on Thomas Circle. We had arranged for a day room here, as Monday is a work day, and we have 7 - 12 hours between trains. We collected 65 Spams and 5 E-mail messages, got our work done quickly, then had an excellent lunch in the hotel dining room, surrounded by important-looking suits (ambassadors, or perhaps cabinet deputy secretaries?) and even had time for a nap and a shower before traintime arrived.
The Washington Plaza Hotel was designed by Marcus Lapidus in 1962. He also designed the Fontainblue Hotel in Miami, plus about 1200 other structures in his 40- year career, all the while suffering scathing criticism from those who hated his modernism. (Apparently only his many satisfied clients were happy.) Originally opening as the International Inn, the structure does not seem dated even today. The site was the location of the Wylie House, constructed in 1843 and destroyed by fire in 1947. Its most famous inhabitant, Judge Wylie, presided over the trial of the Abraham Lincoln assassination conspirators.
There were no Red Caps waiting at the taxi stand of Washington Union Station, as they were when we left this morning. We trundled our bags into the Amtrak area and found a Red Cap who was having a bad day. He got our bags to our train without damaging them, but did not wait around for a gratuity, as he knew he had forfeited any reward due to his rude behavior. We had never experienced a bad Red Cap before, but we used his tip to purchase a round of cocktails in the lounge car.
The Capitol Limited presents itself as the premier long distance train east of Chicago, but like all Amtrak trains, is suffering from the deferred maintenance legacy of the George Warrington years. This situation is now being addressed by David Gunn, Amtrak's new president. The air conditioning in Bedroom B, Car 2900, circulated minute quantities of ambient air, so the stay in our room was warm and humid, even though it was pleasant and cool outdoors. The situation in the dining car was worse, as the electric strip heating was stuck on, and the crew advised that there was no way to turn it off. We have experienced this in other dining cars over the years, and maintenance is not something Amtrak's onboard staff is equipped to handle. Other passengers seemed content, but we are both overly sensitive to heat. The lack of cool, dehumidified air inside trains, planes, automobiles, or sealed buildings affects me the same way that Kryptonite was it too much, or too little? -- affects Superman. I just feel listless and lethargic.
We enjoyed an early dinner and early to bed. The ride over the Appalachians on the former Baltimore & Ohio route was smooth and quiet. Switching over to the former Pennsy route from Pittsburgh to Cleveland was the same, and we slept quite well, in spite of the stuffiness of our room.
The run from Cleveland to Chicago is over some of the worst track on the Amtrak system. It is hard to believe that these are the rails of the former New York Central System, which at one time advertised this as "The Water Level Route -- You Can Sleep." Twice at night, although holding on to grab rails in the restroom annex, I was thrown against the shower handle, releasing sprays of water. The second time I was actually thrown through the door onto the seat in the room, and I have the bruises to show it. Discussing this at breakfast, we learned that our neighbors in Room D had exactly the same experience.
We cannot exaggerate the importance of holding on tightly when moving around the train on sections of track such as this. Our breakfast companions, experienced with European trains, thought this was due to Amtrak having to share tracks with freight railroads. But in America, passenger trains have always shared tracks with freight trains. It is just that the railroads are not as diligent with maintenance as they once were. This is one more area where Amtrak is suffering from conditions beyond their control.
Chicago: Tuesday, May 6.
Our arrival into Chicago was on time, and upon disembarking, we found the weather in the Windy City to be sunny, cool and fresh, quite a relief after being on the Capitol for 19 hours. We actually needed our warm shirts and windbreakers just to walk along the platform to the terminal building.
The organized drill at Union Station remains unchanged. A Red Cap met us on the platform and transferred our luggage to Room 341, adjacent to the Metropolitan Lounge. Here our belonging are stored under lock and key until our connecting train is called, so we are free to enjoy Chicago.
One of our long-time clients, Dick Holt, (who we've never met face-to-face) is meeting us here for lunch. We walk to an excellent restaurant on the Chicago River, just a block from Union Station, and enjoy an interesting conversation with him. He had worked as a gateman at Union Station during his summer years while working his way through dental school. When he sold his dental practice 35 years later, he worked as an Amtrak Train Chief for 5 years before retiring. After lunch he presented us with a well preserved copy of the July 1958 Official Guide of the Railways and Steam Navigation Lines of the United States, Porto (sic) Rico, Canada, Mexico, and Cuba, which is going to offer many fascinating hours of historical reading. The front cover is stamped, "Property of the Pennsylvania Railroad."
The California Zephyr was delayed, so we had time to enjoy the refreshingly cool Metropolitan Lounge. (This name is still used outside the Northeast, where they are now called Club Acela.) Here are complimentary soft drinks and coffee, a selection of current newspapers and magazines, and even CNN. The popularity of Amtrak's long-distance trains is taxing the capacity of this lounge, as passengers awaiting the Southwest Chief, Empire Builder, and Texas Eagle are also on hand. The main waiting room for coach passengers is also overflowing, and some passengers are sitting on the floor. The Great Hall has supplemental seating, but train announcements cannot always be heard there. The Lounge staff are helpful and pleasant, and in spite of a superficial appearance of confusion at train times, all passengers and their luggage are handled with efficiency.
Boarding Car 532, Bedroom A, we are pleased to find the A/C is working perfectly. Normally I try to avoid booking Superliner Bedroom A, which is at the end of the car, and has slightly less floor space, but this was the only room available on the train three weeks prior, when I made our reservations. As it turns out, our work station is compact, but effective, and the ride on the Burlington Northern Santa Fe, out of Chicago to Omaha, is smooth and quiet, even at the end of the car. Between Omaha and Denver, the tracks are rougher, but we slept well.
We experienced Amtrak's third menu on this train a welcome change from the one system-wide menu of a the past few months. I had the Steak Delmonico, Sylvia the dinner special of Stuffed Peppers. The steak was adequate, and I understand the peppers were superb. For dessert there is a Chocolate Bundt cake with vanilla ice cream that is to die for.
We were advised upon leaving the dining car that breakfast would begin earlier, at 6am, so that breakfast service could be concluded before arrival into Denver. Then all passengers would be able to concentrate on the magnificent scene climbing the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado.
Denver to Salt Lake City: Wednesday, May 07
We have not been on this route for eight years (our eastbound trip was detoured through Wyoming) but we have never tired of the scenery. It was spectacular from the domes of the original California Zephyr, which ran from 1949 through 1969, and it is spectacular from the Lounge Café of Amtrak's version of the California Zephyr, where we find two single seats after departing Denver. Just before entering the 6.2 mile Moffett Tunnel, we observed the abandoned roadbed of the original line curving away to the north for its climb over the higher route over the Rockies, rather than through them. Perhaps one of our readers can tell me the name of this pass, as the name escapes me. I believe the roadbed has been turned into a Jeep trail, which would make for some very interesting exploration.
As we entered the tunnel, an announcement was made warning the passengers to stay in the car that they are in, and not to open the doors to pass between cars, as this would allow exhaust fumes to enter the train. I notice that someone has locked the end door next to the dining car in the Open position. By the time I throw the switch to the Normal position, a little smoke has entered, but not enough to present a serious problem. My guess is that the dining car crew locks the door open in order to make it easier for them to call diners in from the lounge car when their tables are ready.
Our dining car has three people working the tables, I don't know how many are in the kitchen. One very efficient waiter works one end of the car, and another the other end of the car. The third person spends most of his time standing at the center island, apparently supervising the other two. As one might guess, with only about two and a quarter people serving a full dining car, service is somewhat slow, even though the two workers are always on the move.
I have the spinach quiche for lunch, Sylvia the burger. I can't resist having another one of the chocolate desserts. The dining car is overheated, although the strip heating is not on. The crew tells us that there is nothing they can do, apparently the thermostat is set at the beginning of winter, and nobody has remembered to reset it to the summer setting. I figure that if the hard-working members of the dining car staff can handle it, then I can too, but we may order room service tonight.
The thought of dismantling our compact work station in Bedroom A in order to dine in our room was too much for me to handle. So we appeared in the dining car for our 7:15 PM dinner reservation, sitting with an interesting couple from New York City, who frequently take the train across the country. We returned to our cabin to find that our car attendant had made up our bed for us.
This would be the last of four consecutive nights aboard Amtrak, the lengthiest contiguous rail trip that we have ever taken. It was filled with an amazing variety of American scenery, more variety of meal choices that Amtrak has offered for quite some time, and the chance to meet many different fellow travelers. All of our trains have been full, even though it is not yet the beginning of the summer season. Amtrak personnel have, with only minor exceptions, been very upbeat and helpful. All of the passengers that we have spoken with have ridden Amtrak long distance trains before, and intend to do so again.
Who are these people? Amtrak's detractors might have us believe that it is just a few wealthy retired people, but they would be wrong. We have met young couples with children, older retired couples riding both coach and sleepers, as well as people traveling on business. Their reasons are many, they want to see America, they have health problems that prevent them from driving or flying, they are boarding at points that have no air service, they are foreign tourists, or in our case, travel agents wanting to see how it is out there, so we can better advise our clients who wish to travel by train.
Yet USA Today, delivered to our room after our stop in Denver, reports that Deputy Secretary of Transportation Jackson has "lashed out" at Amtrak for not "dumping" all of their long distance trains. Does the DOT think that Amtrak is supposed to be a commuter railroad? Is Jackson not up on history, or is he wishing to ignore history.
Preserving long-distance trains, with subsidies from the Federal government, was the reason Amtrak was created by Congress in 1971. Amtrak inherited the routes and equipment from the private rail companies that weren't making money and wanted to stop running passenger service. The idea was that our country could continue to have the train as an option for long distance travelers! Now, more than ever, Americans need an alternative to air and automobile travel.
TRAVEL PLANNING TIPS THE DANGERS OF DOING IT YOURSELF.
Although some people think that the internet is all that's needed for planning a trip, Condé Nast Traveler Magazine recently reported that many experienced travelers have learned the hard way that going back to a travel agent makes a lot of sense.
How can The Train Travel Consultants at Accent on Travel USA help you with your trip planning? Let's look at the couple from New York, who booked their trip on the Internet, and found themselves on the Three Rivers from New York to Chicago, rather than the full dining and lounge equipped Lakeshore Limited. They were disappointed with the limited microwaved options for meal service. We would not have put them on this train unless they knew they wanted it and specifically asked for it.
Then there was the elderly couple with difficulty walking. A travel agent not familiar with Amtrak trains put them in the sleeping car on the California Zephyr that was two cars away from the diner. I would have booked them into the sleeper adjacent to the dining car, unless it was not available, in which case I would have put them on a waiting list for the closer car.
Another couple that thought that Emeryville and Oakland (stations three miles from each other) were the same place, and didn't realize that the California Zephyr no longer goes to Oakland. They were concerned about whether or not their friends would be waiting for them in the right station. We carefully explain this to our clients.
There was the disappointed passenger who wanted to make a connection from the Sunset Limited to the Coast Starlight and found that Amtrak had ticketed him on the tedious and very un-scenic bus/train connection through the San Joaquin Valley instead. We would not let this happen.
Traveling from Chicago to Glacier National Park on the Empire Builder? Would you want to be in the Portland sleeper and have to walk the entire length of the train, through all of the coach cars, every time you wanted to get to the dining car or the lounge car? I don't think so, unless you were an exercise addict who wanted to practice keeping your balance over rough track while avoiding getting banged into the bulkheads, so I would put you into the Seattle sleeper which is right next to the dining and lounge cars.
What if you wanted a Deluxe Bedroom Suite for your family, then found yourself in rooms A and B, with a solid wall between you? Would you be disappointed after paying a couple of thousand dollars for a trip of a lifetime? We would never let this happen to you.
There is more to planning a train trip than a few simple key strokes. Let us help you plan your trip of a lifetime. We will get it right for you.
Please give us a call at 1 800 347 0645, or send an e-mail message to accentontravel@juno.com
. Even if we're on a trip, we'll be checking our messages frequently and contact you as soon as we can.
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