Trip report by Kendelyn Beck

For several years I have been badgering my wife Andrea about taking the Canadian. Finally, we decided to do it in June of '06. I started working with Ted on this trip over a year out. He had pretty much had everything in place within three weeks. The process, using their Brewster connection, was thoroughly easy.

We were booked on a Delta, Jacksonville/Atlanta/Toronto flight. The flight, given it was coach, wasn't too bad, arriving mid afternoon. However, it did reinforce just how much the both of us now, detest flying. Security is always a serious hassle. But now that I have an artificial hip, I get the pleasure of bonding with all those nice TSA folks.

Upon arrival, we took a taxi to the Fairmont Royal York. The driver, who was from the middle east, never said a word. . . oh well! The Royal York, what a beautiful hotel. It is just across the street from the VIA station, and only about 4 blocks from the lake front. Location. . .location. . . location!

We were a tad beat from the trip so we decided to hit room service for dinner. However, first we asked the Concierge just where we could buy some wine. He advised us to go to the lower level of the VIA station and quickly, as they closed at 5:00 PM on Sunday. We hot footed across the street, located it on the lower level and found a decent selection of Australian.

Andrea and I have been accused of being sick. . . we are early risers. So by 6:00 AM on Monday we were out doing our usual 8 mile run along the path by Lake Ontario. We have found that running is a relatively easy way to become familiarized with a new city, Toronto proved no exception. We headed back to the Royal York, finishing by the VIA station at almost exactly 80 minutes.

For the rest of the day we walked for several hours in the surrounding neighborhoods, the shopping districts and the usual tourist haunts. Before going back to the hotel we checked out the VIA station in preparation for the next day's departure on the Canadian.

Later, when reading the paper and watching the news, we found out that the RCMP and the Canadian Security Service had arrested some 17 home grown, Al Quaeda, wannabes, in the Toronto area. One of their supposed targets was the CN Tower, which was a little over three blocks away. That could have seriously ruined a perfectly good day!

We awoke and did our usual 8 mile jaunt along Lake Ontario. As the Canadian was scheduled for a 9:00 AM departure, we headed over to the Via Station around 7:30 AM. Just as billed, under the clock was the Brewster rep. He took our vouchers and returned with our tickets and boarding pass for Bedroom "F", Car 122, just behind the Park car.

He took us to the baggage check area and in no time had arranged for our larger bags to be checked through to Jasper. What an easy beginning of a trip. He escorted us to the VIA First Class Lounge where we had fruit and coffee and awaited boarding.

We sat with a couple from Palm Springs. After the usual bantering, somehow the topic of wine came up. The husband asked where we had bought ours. I told him about the concierge's suggestion concerning the station store. His wife chimed in, "Honey, I told you to ask the Concierge, but oh no!" Poor guy, he wasn't a happy camper.

A couple of minutes before 9:00, VIA called for first class passengers to begin boarding. We walked along the platform toward car 122. Man, I was like an excited child! Voila, just as Ted had billed, Bedroom "F" was larger than any of the other bedrooms. In the prior life before VIA, it was a compartment on the CPR's Canadian.

Our train out of Toronto had 23 cars, only two of which were coaches. There were three Sky Line dome cars, 2 diners, 15 sleepers and the Park Dome sleeper, quite an impressive train.

Leaving Toronto the train backs out for some 16 miles or so. It was an interesting 35 or so minutes, as one of the VIA engineers controlled the train from the Park Car. Later that morning we went back to F/122 and settled in for the trip to Jasper.

we elected 2nd seating in the diner and met the usual, eclectic group of fellow passengers. At lunch there was a couple from New York going to Vancouver for an Alaska Holland America cruise. At dinner, two friends, one from California, the other England who were taking the train as their respective husbands were in Africa on safari.

After dinner we enjoyed a half hour or so of the ever changing scenery of the Canadian Shield scenery from the Park Car dome (with incredible luck, first row/right the entire trip). Andrea and I decided to hit the sack fairly early, 9:30 or so. Sleep proved quite easy for both of us as we had enjoyed some of our Chardonnay we had brought onboard.

We awoke around 5:30 and decided to use 122's shower compartment located just behind F. From reading another Accent on Travel post trip report, we found the best way to use the shower. First, don't forget to take the shower kit provided by VIA (4 pretty decent towels and shampoo). Andrea goes into the shower, I stand guard in the changing area and hand her shampoo, conditioner, etc. When she has finished, I hand her two towels. She exits into the changing area and we reverse the process. Once you get the hang of the thing, it works quite well.

At breakfast we ran into the two friends whose husbands were in Africa. The English lady recounted her adventure with the shower. Apparently she didn't realize the shower is on a timer. When the water didn't go off she panicked and began hitting the on button again and again in an effort to make the water stop. Mais no madame! That just keeps it flowing. Finally figuring it out, she let it run its course. You discuss some very interesting topics on a train.

In the early afternoon, we went by a town named Elma somewhere east of Winnipeg. Then a full stop and we sat there for a bit. Finally we began backing up and a stop in Elma. Over the PA, they announced someone was supposed to have arranged for a flag stop in Elma to meet a fishing tour. Apparently someone failed to communicate within VIA, so the train didn't stop until he went screaming to the conductor. . . oops!.

The train did a service stop in Winnipeg which lasted for more than an hour. There really wasn't much to do other than stretch our legs and walk around outside the station for a bit. But as it was a beautiful, sunny afternoon, it proved to be a nice break.

We awoke the next morning to find it was cold and raining cats 'n dogs. When we pulled into Edmonton it was still raining and pretty chilly. The station is way out by the airport so there wasn't much to see or do. That coupled with the rain, we decided to just sit and read in "F".

Later in the morning, gradually the snow capped Canadian Rockies came into view, awesome! We arrived in Jasper around a half hour late. . . but who cares? The Brewster rep met us and steered us toward a Heritage cab, our ride to Jasper Park Lodge.

We really didn't know what to expect at JPL, but it proved to be an incredible hotel. Once again, Ted and Sylvia hit a home run. One practical note, the cab driver told me if we wanted any wine delivered to our room, simply dial a local number, 852-wine (9463). That is the number of a local Jasper wine store. They will fill your order, charge your credit card, and deliver it for free after 4:00 PM that day. It worked!

What can you say about JPL. A beautiful lodge surrounded by two lakes and drop dead gorgeous scenery. . . and elk, lots of them. At first it was "Oh my God, elk". Later, becoming somewhat jaded, it was, "Oh, just another elk!"

After breakfast on our last morning at JPL, we were paying the bill when we ran into another couple from the Canadian. They asked, "Did you hear about the delay?" We were informed a freight had derailed east of Winnipeg, causing the Canadian to be 10 ½ hours late. Instead of a 3:30 afternoon departure, we were told it would probably leave Jasper sometime after 1:00 AM the following morning.

We couldn't get late checkout due to the JPL being full. I called the local Brewster rep who said the p/u would still be at 1:30 that afternoon. By 2:00 PM still no Brewster p/u. The bell captain called the local Brewster contract rep, who responded, "We can't find our driver". About a half hour later, Brewster sent Heritage Cab for the p/u. On the ride back to the Jasper station we couldn't help but notice the driver was more than a tad tipsy and smelled like a beer keg. We relayed this to Sylvia. About three weeks later, we received a very nice letter of apology and a $25 check from Brewster. I am quite sure they didn't want to hear about something like that.

Upon arrival at the VIA station, we were told that yes, the train would be over 11 hours late. As compensation VIA gave us both $25 vouchers for dinner at a pretty decent restaurant (following Sylvia's advice, after arriving home we contacted VIA Customer Service and we received a $375 credit toward another VIA trip). After wandering around Jasper we decided to get a room in a local hotel. We found a room at the Athabasca Hotel ($72 CA), one block from the station. It was kind of quaint, shared restrooms/showers, but all-in-all wasn't bad at all. Accent on Travel reimbursed us the room cost, which was an incredible gesture on their part.

Andrea and I crashed around 8:00 PM and got up around midnight to go back to the station. We met the two women who were on the first segment of the Canadian. They told us they had turned in their VIA tickets and would take the bus to Vancouver. Their bus was to leave the station at 2:45 AM, getting them to Vancouver after noon the next day. Andrea and I thought that was just an incredibly dumb, dumb decision. How can you give up a bedroom on the Canadian, the meals, shower, etc., for two cramped bus seats? Oh well, as we used to say during my lawyer days in Texas, "There ain't no cure for stupid!"

The train pulled in around 2:50 AM, and we were asleep in F/122 by 3:30 AM. However, there was an incredible upside to the train being late. We were able to see much of the fabulous scenery the folks on the Rocky Mountain Mountaineer see, the Thompson River and the Fraiser River Canyon. . . incredible! Usually you would be asleep during that segment.

We arrived in Vancouver around 5:30 the evening of June 11 (a little off the scheduled 7:50 AM arrival time). Just as we were pulling in, the eastbound Canadian was pulling out on our left.

After two wonderful days at the Fairmont's Hotel Vancouver, we were scheduled to leave at 6:00 PM for Seattle, on Amtrak's Mt. Baker Cascade. That was one very neat, little Talgo train. After boarding, we were relaxing in our Business Class seats when the conductor announced a draw bridge, some 20 miles down the line, wouldn't close. We would be departing around 6:30 PM. Well 6:30 PM came and went, another announcement. "The train may be cancelled and you will be bussed to Seattle." Hell, I would rather stick my hand in a fire ant mound!

Luck was on our side as they were able to close the bridge and we finally went on our way after 7:15 PM. We arrived in Seattle around 11:30 that evening. We were really tired and crashed when we got to the Hotel Roosevelt.

Due to our late arrival when we awoke we really didn't know where the hotel was located. We went out to run and Andrea was instantly in seventh heaven as Macy's and Nordstrom's were two and three blocks away, respectively. The Pike Street Market was about six blocks away, just up the hill from Puget Sound. The Hotel Roosevelt was very nice and very conveniently located. After a great run along Puget Sound, breakfast, then Andrea hits Macy's and Nordstrom.

The Empire Builder left on time at 4:45 PM that afternoon with a very heavy load. We were in Bedroom B/Car 830 (a refurbished Superliner II/thank you David Gunn) which was a very nice accommodation.. Unlike the Canadian, the shower was located in our bedroom, commode enclosure. The standard bedrooms share a shower compartment similar to that on the Canadian

Our attendant was Jimmy Wong, a really great guy who lives in Seattle. As we were leaving Seattle he pointed out where his condo was located and announced he had 63 more trips on the Builder until retirement. The scenery out of Seattle is quite diverse. The train follows the Puget Sound for close to an hour, then climbs up into the Cascade Range. It was a beautiful trip. We both had superb steaks in the diner that evening. That is an option unavailable on other Amtrak trains due to their new "Simplified Dining Car" menu policy. That policy was put in place thanks to an absolutely idiotic, micro management edict by Congress. When will those morons leave Amtrak alone!

Jimmy Wong said our trip through Montana would seem endless and he was right. We crossed into Montana early the next morning and we didn't leave Montana until late that afternoon. At our door that morning was a Montana daily paper. The lead article on page one shouted, "U.S. House Approves Amtrak Funding." The article went on to say the Empire Builder served as a life line for the state, it was their main mode of transportation. So much for the idiotic comment "Trains going nowhere with no one on them," by former DOT Secy. Norman Mineta.

At 3:30 PM all sleeping car passengers were invited to the dining car for a wine tasting. The hosts were the ever present Jimmy Wong and Fran Jones, the lead dining car attendant. They really kept the glasses full and the wine flowing and soon all of us were having a ball. That evening we again had the steaks. Amtrak sure does a great job with that dish.

The next morning we pulled into the Minneapolis/St. Paul station. At the station we were spotted next to the 10 or so private cars which made up the "Friends of 261" special train. Those cars, among which was the unique "Cedar Rapids," a former Milwaukee Road Parlor-Skytop Observation, were magnificent. It was akin to up being up close and personal with Private Varnish magazine.

Leaving the Twin Cities the Builder followed the Mississippi for over 100 fascinating miles, which brought back memories. When I was around 17 or so, my father and I took the CB&Q's Morning Twin Cities Zephyr to Chicago. Ironically, that Twin Cities-Chicago segment was the conclusion of another great, marathon trip many years ago.

In 1962 my father and I took the NYC Toledo/Chicago, GN Western Star Glacier Park/Portland, UP Portland/Seattle, Alaska Airlines Fairbanks, Alaska RR Aurora Fairbanks/Denali/Anchorage, Alaska Air Juneau, CPR SS Princess Louise Juneau/Vancouver, CPR Canadian/Vancouver/Lake Louise/Banff/Winnipeg, Soo Line Winnipeger Winnipeg/Minneapolis, CB&Q Morning Zephyr Minneapolis/Chicago, NYC Chicago/Toledo. I confess to being a rail nut since I was a little kid.

Back to the present, the Builder's arrival in Chicago was flawless and on time. Ted had booked us at the Chicago Hilton, a great hotel close to Lake Michigan. Unfortunately, due to commitments back home, we were booked on our old nemesis, Delta, the next morning. The next time we hope to extend our stay in Chicago. I love that city. During my young and stupid days (which are not to be confused with my older and still stupid days), in '83 and '84 I ran two ultra-marathons (AMJA Ultra/50 miles) in Chicago along Lake Michigan.

Our flight back to Jacksonville was on time. Unfortunately Delta was Delta. . . our bags however, didn't show up when we did. Nothing can put a damper on a trip when the last two bags on the carousal are not yours. A quick trip to the hassled Delta baggage rep (what a job). The question, "We waited two hours in Chicago, how can you possibly lose two bags?" Thankfully, around 6 hours later they were delivered to our front door, hot damn! Looking back, we were sure happy the bag fiasco didn't happen on the Jacksonville-Toronto segment.

Again. thanks for everything Ted and Sylvia. As usual, the trip you put together was great.

Accent on Travel USA