Trip Reports: June 24 to July 11, 2004

by Ted & Sylvia Blishak

The American Orient Express
Lewis and Clark Epic Journey

Tuesday, July 6, 2004

Yellowstone National Park

We take a pre-dawn stroll around the park surrounding the Snow King Lodge, and watch the sun rise over the Grand Tetons. These impossibly jagged granite peaks must be the most remarkable panorama in the American Rockies.

A lengthy motorcoach journey begins with a trip along the huge, green National Elk Reserve, a lovely flat-bottomed river valley. We’d like to come back to Grand Teton, as development is limited here, leaving the lakes, rivers, and mountains in their appealing wilderness condition. All eyes are on the glacier-dappled peaks as the bus heads towards Yellowstone.

Our first stop is at the Oxbow Bend of the Snake River, which offers a mirror reflection of the three Grand Tetons.

The landscape changes dramatically as we enter Yellowstone National Park, the world’s first National Park, opened in 1872. The forests of lodgepole pine have been decimated by the great fire of 1988. The burned trees are being left to fall and eventually reintegrate into the soil, which is slowly being regenerated. Nearly a half million acres were affected by the great fire which burned for several months in spite of heroic efforts to contain it. Some new trees, only a few feet tall, are struggling to renew the forest.

Only recently, with the aid of satellite photographs, have geologists realized that much of Yellowstone is contained within the largest volcanic caldera in North America, about 40 miles in diameter. The most recent volcanic eruptions occurred over 640,000 years ago, spewing out an estimated 240 cubic miles of debris. Volcanism still exists here, powering various geysers, fumaroles, mudpots, and boiling springs. There is a great display of this phenomena at West Thumb Geyser Basin, creating a steaming turmoil right on the shores of the coldly blue Yellowstone Lake.

Some of the passengers have reserved an optional hike here, but they will miss the tour of Yellowstone, which most of us elect to do. We picnic at Old Faithful, whose towering blasts of steam and hot water are observed by several thousand enthusiastic tourists seated at benches around the geyser basin. (On our first visit here in the 1950s, about 200 visitors were awed by each display, and the benches were closer to the geyser. It erupted at one-hour intervals then; since the earthquake of 1959, the displays are about 90 minutes apart.)

On our return trip to Idaho Falls, we stop at Lower Geyser Basin, where steaming pools and boiling ponds and mud pots amaze great throngs of tourists. Unlike the under-utilized Grand Tetons, Yellowstone’s infrastructure is strained, with parking lots full and lines at every restroom. Connie guides us around the half-mile boardwalk. Signs remind us to stay off the ground, where a fall into a boiling spring or contact with the superheated soil could be fatal. She gives us some good explanations of these geological wonders, and entertains us with some amazing tales of characters from frontier days.

Back in Idaho Falls, we drive past the downtown waterfalls that are the town’s namesake, and then back to our beautiful train. The car attendants in full uniform are lined up in front of the AOE to welcome us.

While this will be our last night on the train, and we are a bit travel-worn from a long and active day of touring, a festive air prevails on board. With the exception of one passenger, who has never changed from his short pants and sandals, many of us spiff up a bit. This involves dressier pants for the ladies and sports jackets over golf shirts for some of the men. (Ted even wore a necktie, an event in itself!)

Cocktails are on the house tonight, along with elaborate snacks in the New York lounge car. Our porter also brings a complimentary bottle of chilled Basque champagne to our cabin. The dinner menu is better than ever, with choices of crab cakes, lobster, filet mignon, and pork chops.

An after-dinner party in the Rocky Mountain piano lounge features dancing by two sisters, aged 11 and 13, who are having a marvelous time aboard the train. We end the evening in the darkened dome of the New Orleans with a few of the train staff to watch the sunset over Bear River Canyon, about 300 feet below the tracks.

Tomorrow, we’ll be reluctantly detraining in Salt Lake City, where our delightful week on the American Orient Express ends.

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