Trip Report: May 3 - 18, 2001
by Ted & Sylvia Blishak
Through the Pacific Northwest and Canada
by Amtrak, BC Rail and VIA Rail Canada
RETURN FROM TORONTO:
DAY 3
Monday, May 14, 2001. This morning we are inching into Edmonton still over one and a half hours behind schedule. Actually, we are not in Edmonton proper, but at some point on the CN line north of Edmonton, between the City Airport and the International Airport. We can see the skyscrapers of downtown Edmonton several miles to the south. Entering the station requires a lengthy backup move, as the station track does not have a switch at both ends, apparently an economy move. We wonder why the train no longer goes to the station downtown, and are told that with only the Canadian using the station, and that one train not arriving every day, it is not worthwhile keeping the station operating.
The new dining car steward is having a time getting everyone fed this morning, breakfast is running well past the time when it has been completed on all of our other mornings. We are just having our entrees delivered at a little after 10 AM as the train is backing into the station. The baggage car is spotted adjacent to the station, so the walk from Car 136 to the small station building is about three eighths of a mile. We still cannot reach certain phone numbers in the Midwest, either from our cell phone or the station pay phone. Don't understand it, it is no longer Mother's Day. We are having a very difficult time communicating from Canada, a problem that we have not experienced anywhere else during our travels, even while in Poland and Hungary, or on prior trips to Canada.
We hook up to a land line at the Edmonton station to collect and transmit our e-mail and then reboard. The usual drill at these stops is to board all the passengers, then move the train ahead a few car lengths, apparently to service the second half of the train, which is far too long for the service length of the platforms. Although the Service Manager always tries to hurry the station process when the train is behind schedule, it just takes a certain amount of time and really cannot be rushed.
There is about three hours of flatlands west of Edmonton, then we find seats in Strathcona Park, which is soon filled to capacity. At first we enter rolling foothills, then the jagged, snow covered peaks of the front range appear in the distance, when all of a sudden we are in the Rockies! I am interested in the impossibly steep peaks, others are looking for animal sightings, of which there are many, mountain sheep, mountain goats, elk, and later in the day moose and bear.
At Jasper, in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, we make another service stop and the large Cosmos Tours group disembarks. There are other tour groups leaving hear as well, and in the station parking area there are Brewster, Cosmos, and Rocky Mountaineer tour buses. Individual travelers are lined up at the Hertz and National car rental desks inside the station. The confusion is compounded by a renovation in progress of the building and grounds. One of the unexpected results of this work is that we found at least one exit door padlocked, which I suspect could be a violation of fire regulations.
There is considerable controversy as to when the train will depart. Since we were once left behind at Jasper and had to catch up with the help of the station agent's automobile, we stick close to trainside, waiting for a reboarding announcement. At first it was to be 30 minutes, but it stretched out to be over one hour to allow three workmen and a dome washing machine to clean all the glass on the train. We were lucky enough to secure seats again in the Park car as we left Jasper to traverse Yellowhead Pass.
Shortly after leaving Jasper on the CN double track line to Yellowhead, we passed the eastbound Skeena arriving from Prince George. One locomotive, one coach, and a Park car. A little later we pass the Jasper segment of the Rocky Mountaineer, consisting of one locomotive, three coaches and a Gold Leaf Dome. Two passenger meets in a little more than a half an hour; this is big time railroading, and all on double track, ribbon rail, with concrete ties.
After rolling along the shore of Yellowhead Lake, the source of the Fraser River, we begin our descent into British Columbia while complimentary champagne is served in the dome.
The main line to Vancouver curves south while the Prince Rupert line continues west. Soon we pass the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies, but you have to know where to look. Descending a long green valley, the ridge to your right comes to an end, and if you look over your right shoulder you will see the impossibly steep west wall of Mt. Robson.
An announcement is made the Canadian will slow down to allow picture taking of Pyramid Falls, which can be seen only from the train or on foot, as it is miles from the nearest road.
We linger in the Park car until twilight, taking a photo of the clocks with displaying all the time zones of Canada, and await last call for dinner. We have one more night on this train to complete five nights on board. We prepare our luggage before retiring, as we are scheduled to arrive at about 8 AM. We are rocked gently to sleep.
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