Trip Report: May 12 - June 2, 2002
by Ted & Sylvia Blishak
SPRING JOURNEY ACROSS THE CONTINENT AND RETURN
SPOKANE TO FARGO
Day 3 May 14, 2002
Our last memory of Monday night was pulling into Spokane and wondering if we would ever see that city in the light of day this won't happen if we always arrive on the Empire Builder. We sent our trip report and photos by e-mail, then fell into a deep sleep. The next thing we knew, Donald was knocking at our door, as requested, to advise us of the last call for breakfast.
"Which way to the dining car?" I asked Ted, knowing that the Seattle section of the train had been added to ours in the wee small hours in Spokane. Ted noticed that we still had the two material handling cars (boxcars) behind our sleeper so we should head the other direction. We struck out forward, and went through two coaches, the Café Lounge, two more coaches, and arrived at the dining car. Forward of the diner was the Seattle sleeper, the crew dorm, and the baggage car
We'd been advised before our departure that Amtrak has just standardized their menus in a "cost-cutting" move; how this will save money is a puzzle, but it will certainly sadden passengers accustomed to the regional choices formerly offered on the different trains. We will be looking at the same menu all the way to Cleveland. When the subject is mentioned by our table-mates, frequent Amtrak travelers from Spokane, a waitress overhears us and says, good naturedly "We don't want to hear about this it was a corporate decision. What can we do?"
We order oatmeal, fruit, croissant, and bacon. Outside the window, the snowy Montana Rockies loom above us. There are patches of snow along the tracks, and the spring thaw is causing rivulets to flow down the mountains. But spring itself has not arrived, as there are bare branches on the aspen trees, and no wildflowers yet. Still, the view is awesome. We pass the Izaak Walton Inn, sporting the vintage Great Northern sign and logo. Built as a railroad hotel, it is now a railfan's haven. Staff members are, in their usual tradition, waving from the front porch. An onboard docent explains that there are no TVs or phones in the rooms and the food is great. We send many of our clients there, and some return every year.
Following a branch of the Flathead River, we observe the continental divide, marked by an obelisk dedicated to Teddy Roosevelt. A small stream that was flowing westward along the tracks dissolves into a series of ponds; almost immediately there is a small stream beside the tracks flowing eastward, destined for the Gulf of Mexico. Now the Builder passes the National Park lodge at East Glacier. This is the dramatic visual dividing point between the Rockies and the Great Plains.
From here into Chicago, we can relax. There is no need to look out the windows once the Rockies disappear over the western horizon, as the dun-colored and stunningly empty landscape, with occasional deserted and derelict homesteads, farm buildings and small settlements, all with their row of junk cars, is not scenery of the "ooh and aah" variety. Time to nap, be mesmerized by the rhythm of the rails, visit with other passengers, or to read a book
Ted declares that he likes multi-day rail trips because you don't have to pack up and get ready to leave. You can just hang out.
At lunchtime, we are seated with another couple and each of us orders something different from the menu. The vegetable stir-fry with chow-mein noodles proves to have four or five bits of broccoli stem, but is otherwise composed of rice and noodles. The hamburger and Rueben sandwich are both enjoyable. I might have enjoyed the chicken salad if I liked chicken (why did I order it?). The desserts are all good; the Dutch apple pie a la mode gets rave reviews.
We have two exercise stops today, Havre at 132pm and Minot, where we arrive 5 minutes early at 917pm. At the Havre station resting on a siding is a BNSF Track Measurement Car.
It seems to be doing a good job, our ride on the BNSF has been very smooth. The Soo Line, which we encounter later this evening, is another story, some of the roughest track on the Amtrak system.
On display at the Havre station is Great Northern engine 2584, a 4-8-4 Mountain type.
After a lazy afternoon, rain squalls and a brilliant rainbow keep us entranced at a very tasty dinner. Sylvia had the pork chop with rice and herbed cream sauce and steamed green beans. Ted had the baked salmon with garlic mashed potatoes and green beans. Both entrees were excellent, two of the best dinners we have had aboard Amtrak. Ted topped it off with a dish of vanilla bean ice cream, skipping the apple pie this time.
Then it is time for a shower, but the shower light is out. We call Donald and he resets a circuit breaker under the sink and all is well. It is hard to believe that these cars are now 23 years old, our first ride on the "new" Superliner California Zephyr was in 1979. Now they are approaching the end of their service life and require a major rebuild, but Amtrak, ignored by the Administration, and starving for cash while Congress dithers, keeps them running with duct tape.
Continue to Next Page
