Trip Report: October 8 - 28, 2000
by Ted & Sylvia Blishak
ONBOARD AMTRAK
WITH TED AND SYLVIA BLISHAK
October 28, 2000
The last day, San Luis Obispo to Klamath Falls.
Yesterday, after an enjoyable visit with our friends in San Luis Obispo, we arrived at the picturesque train station, surrounded by eucalyptus and palm trees and the unmistakable mountains of this beautifully-located town. Train #14 once again arrived 25 minutes ahead of schedule, so we had plenty of time to invite Eileen and Merlyn aboard to show them our Deluxe Bedroom, decked out with some Coast Starlight exclusive amenities -- a vase of fresh flowers and a basket with shampoo, lotion, soap, and a washcloth.
Hayward, our car attendant, recognized us as frequent travelers on the Coast Starlight as he welcomed us aboard.
We explained to our friends, who were obviously impressed, that another exclusive feature on this train is the first-class lounge. They followed us into the Pacific Parlour Car to find a well-dressed group of passengers getting ready for a wine-tasting, another tradition unique to the Starlight. The car attendant passed out wine menus describing the four vintages that would be served, and we noted that they were all from Paso Robles, our next stop on the other side of the Santa Lucia mountain range.
Next we showed off the dining car, where they admired the new menus with a painting of the silver, blue and red train against the backdrop of Mt. Shasta, and a selection of five entrees one of them vegetarian. for dinner. While the meals are included in the price of our first-class ticket, coach passengers must pay for meals, and we noted that the prices are now similar to those in an upscale restaurant. The Prime Rib, for example, is now $19.95.
An announcement that all guests should detrain came over the PA system, and we bid our friends goodbye after inviting them to take the train to Klamath Falls and pay us a visit soon.
After the whistled "toot-toot" and the cry of "All Aboard" we sat in the station waiting for UP to give our conductor the highball. They have delayed us, they say, because of track work ahead. Number #14 pulled out of the station 20 minutes late. It was raining heavily, and good to be aboard a train where someone else was driving and we could relax and enjoy the sight of our three engines (one a California Car locomotive in blue, white, and gold, followed by two Genesis engines) as we rolled around the Horseshoe Curve and began our ascent into the mountain wilderness.
After taking turns napping and writing our trip report on the laptop, it was time for our 7 PM dinner. We were seated with a nicely-dressed couple in their eighties who were returning from a visit to their adult grandchildren in San Diego. Their home is in Great Falls, Montana, where they own a cattle ranch. They have traveled with a group of other ranchers and farmers to visit farms in Russia, Finland, Switzerland, and Japan.
"Some of our friends like to go on cruises, but we like to go to places where we can meet real people," they said.
These UP tracks through Central California are some of the roughest in the country, so we feel fortunate that we can walk the three cars back from the diner while we're slowed for Gilroy's speed restriction. The dining car served its first sitting at 5 PM, and when we depart San Jose at 8:45 PM, newly-boarding sleeping-car passengers are invited to the final sitting. The dining car crew has had a long shift, and done a successful balancing act carrying trays of food through the lurching train with grace and the kind of excellent but unobtrusive service one expects in a fine restaurant.
Hayward has made up our bed while we've been dining, and we return to a graceful stack of white pillows topped with some foil-wrapped chocolates.
This will be our last night on Amtrak for this trip. Number 14 makes a brief stop in Oakland, and several pauses in the Oakland yards, as we turn out the lights.
Arrival into Klamath Falls.
Travel Tip: First-class passengers have their meals, but not gratuities, included in the cost of their ticket. We were surprised to notice how many first-class travelers neglected to leave a tip. If you choose to tip, the amount should be the same as you'd leave in a restaurant. By dinnertime, we had only $20 bills left. The maitre' d wasn't able to change them, nor were our dining companions, but the conductor was. Be sure to keep plenty of $5 and $10 dollar bills on hand.
We awake at the first light of dawn. Out the window is Mt Shasta, looking as if it is etched translucently upon the sky. Pine and Juniper trees line the tracks, reminding us that we are almost in Oregon.
Travel Tip: If you have a choice about your direction of travel on the Coast Starlight, take it northbound, and wake up early to see Mt Shasta. The tracks go right up on the shoulder of the massive volcanic peak, and words cannot describe its mystical beauty. If you travel southbound you'll miss both it and Klamath Lake as darkness will have fallen.
By the time the sun comes up, Mt Shasta has changed its appearance and we note that it is covered with a confectioner's sugar dusting of snow, which it accumulated in our absence.
We're now running about a half hour late, and rather than having breakfast in the dining car, we take the option of a Continental breakfast in the Pacific Parlour Car. At a booth with fresh flowers and white linen our car attendant serves us sweet rolls, tea, and juice.
The announcement comes over the PA that Klamath Falls is our next stop. It is a crew-change stop, so passengers are invited to detrain for about ten minutes. "But wear a jacket, it's 34 degrees outside," warns the car attendant. At this, a universal cry of dismay is voiced by the passengers, most of whom boarded in Southern California.
As we pull up next to the station, we note that there are lights on in the waiting room so the station's remodeling is progressing.
Ted's brother George, wearing jacket, hat, and wool gloves, is at the station to meet us as our Amtrak odyssey draws to a close.
